Timber usually comes down to what you’re building, how much handling you’ve got, and whether it needs treatment before it goes out. For straight structural work, timber lengths are often the cleaner fit. For lining, boxing-in or cut-to-size jobs, timber boards or timber sheets make more sense because you cut waste and keep handling simpler. Untreated timber works where the spec allows it, but once moisture or exposure is in play, that is where jobs go wrong and treated timber becomes the safer call.
CaberMDF Pro Board FSC - 2440mm x 1220mm x 9mm
FSC-certified MDF board, 2440mm x 1220mm x 9mm
Sheathing Plywood Pine CE2+ E1 EN636-2 FSC - 2440mm x 1220mm x 9mm
FSC-certified pine sheathing plywood, 2440mm x 1220mm x 9mm
PAR Redwood Softwood PEFC - 50mm x 50mm x 1.8m
PEFC redwood PAR timber 50x50mm, 1.8m, specialist construction
Kronospan Moisture Resistant MDF Board - 12mm x 1220mm x 2440mm
Moisture resistant MDF board, 12mm x 1220mm x 2440mm
Sawn Treated Green Timber - 19mm x 38mm (3/4" x 1 1/2") 3.0m
Sawn treated green timber, 19mm x 38mm, 3.0m length
CaberFloor P5 Chipboard TG4 FSC - 2400mm x 600mm x 22mm
P5 tongue and groove chipboard flooring board, 2400 x 600 x 22 millimetres, FSC …
Meyer Match Primed Machined MDF Long Grain FSC - 2440mm x 1220mm x 9mm
Primed MDF sheet 2440 x 1220 x 9 mm, FSC certified
General Purpose Plywood FSC - 1220mm x 606mm x 3.6mm
FSC certified general purpose plywood sheet, 1220 x 606 x 3.6mm
PAR Softwood WW PTL PEFC - 50mm x 22mm (2" x 1") 3.0m
PAR softwood, 50 x 22 millimetres, 3 metre, PEFC certified
PAR Redwood Softwood PEFC - 50mm x 50mm (2" x 2") PTL 3.0m nominal
PEFC-certified planed all round redwood timber 50mm x 50mm x 3m
Start with the space you’ve got and how the timber will be used. That usually settles the spec faster than comparing grades first. If access is tight, long timber lengths can be awkward and slow you down, so shorter stock or timber boards may be the better fit. If the job is exposed, treated timber is usually the call. If it’s staying dry and you’re keeping cost down, untreated timber is often enough. Building & Doors is the parent hub if you’re moving between this and the other ranges on the job.
For a job where you need a flat, stable sheet rather than a structural board, Chipboard is often the first pull. It keeps costs down when the sheet does not need the same weather resistance or load handling as plywood or OSB.
The trade-off is clear. You get a consistent panel for the money, but you give up moisture tolerance and edge toughness. That makes it a fit for dry internal work. Plywood and OSB stay the better shout where the board will be handled hard or see damp.
Hardboard is the one you pull when you want a thin, smooth face rather than a structural sheet. It suits backs, liners and temporary protection where a neat finish matters more than strength. That is what sets it apart from heavier timber sheets.
If the job needs load-bearing performance or better impact resistance, you need a different sheet material. If you just want a clean, economical skin, Hardboard is the straightforward buy. The usual choice is between a board that stays flat and easy to handle, or one with more body in the sheet.
MDF is the one you pull when you need a clean, consistent sheet that machines well and takes paint properly. You'd usually pick it over a rougher board when the finish is on show.
Compared with chipboard, it gives you a better finish on visible work, but it is heavier and needs to stay dry. Against hardboard, it gives you more body and a more usable edge, which is why it gets picked for MDF on trims, panels and fitted details where the finish matters more than saving a few quid on the sheet.
Moulding is the one you pull when the job needs a finished edge rather than a plain board. You usually choose by profile, size and how much finishing you want to do after fixing.
Keep it simple. If the detail will be seen, pick timber that is straight and consistent. Twisted lengths waste time at the bench and show once it is painted. In a dry internal setting, untreated timber is usually fine. Once moisture or exposure comes into play, move to treated timber instead.
OSB is the sheet you reach for when you need more bite than basic board, but no need to pay for a cleaner face than the job calls for. It suits sheathing, flooring and general build work where strength and price matter more than appearance.
Compared with plywood, it is usually the cheaper call, but you give up some face quality and edge neatness. Against chipboard, it holds up better where the sheet may take a bit more abuse. For timber sheets that will be covered, OSB is often the sensible middle ground.
Plywood is the sheet you reach for when you want more stability than basic timber boards and more toughness than decorative board.
It suits jobs that need decent strength without moving up to something heavier or more specialised. You give up the cleaner face and finer finish you get from MDF. If the sheet needs to take knocks, fixings and a bit of movement, plywood makes sense. If the finish matters more, look elsewhere.
What usually settles timber is whether you need straight lengths, flat sheet material, or something just to finish the job off. Timber lengths suit a proper run and are easier to work with on site. Timber sheets or timber boards make more sense where you want coverage and fewer joints.
Untreated timber is fine for dry internal work. Once the job is exposed or likely to pick up moisture, move to treated stock and accept the extra cost. If you’re topping up a mixed order, Building Supplies is usually where the rest of the fixings and consumables get picked up.
Once you’ve picked the timber, the next call is what finishes around it. If you’re lining out, boxing in or closing off a rough opening, the sheet material matters as much as the frame.
Chipboard keeps cost down where the face won’t be seen. MDF gives you a cleaner finish where the edge stays visible. Hardboard still gets pulled for thin backing and protection, but it is not the answer where you need stiffness.
Most call-backs start with the wrong sheet for the finish, not the wrong timber.









