Led drivers come down to three checks: output type, voltage, and whether the load needs dimming. Constant current units suit fittings that need a set current. Constant voltage options are the usual pick for strip-style runs and other 12v or 24v jobs. If the spec calls for dimming, buy the dimmable version up front - changing it later is where the call-backs start.
Sensio Titan+ Low Profile 24V LED Driver - 6W
Sensio TITAN+ 24V 6W dimmable LED driver, low profile 16.5mm depth
Sensio Titan+ Low Profile 24V LED Driver - 15W
Sensio TITAN+ 24V 15W dimmable LED driver, low profile 16.5mm depth
Sensio Titan+ Low Profile 24V LED Driver - 30W
Sensio TITAN+ 24V 30W dimmable LED driver, low profile 16.5mm depth
Integral LED Driver Constant Voltage Non Dimmable IP20 - 50W 12V
12V 50W constant voltage LED driver, non-dimmable, IP20
ALL LED Constant Voltage LED Driver - 24V 25W Triac Dimmable IP20
24V 25W constant voltage LED driver, Triac dimmable, with multiple protections
Knightsbridge IP20 24V 50W DC Dimmable LED Driver Constant Voltage
Knightsbridge 50W 24V DC dimmable constant voltage LED driver, IP20
Integral LED Driver Constant Voltage Non Dimmable IP20 - 20W 12V
Integral LED constant voltage driver, 20W 12V, non-dimmable, IP20
ALL LED Constant Voltage LED Driver - 12V 25W Triac dimmable IP20
Triac dimmable constant voltage LED driver, 12V 25W, IP20
All LED Constant Voltage LED Driver - 24V 60W Non-dimmable
ALL LED 24V 60W non-dimmable constant voltage LED driver
Knightsbridge LED DC Driver Constant Voltage - 40W 12V IP20
Constant voltage LED driver, 40W 12V, non-dimmable IP20
Start with the space you’ve got and how the fitting will be used. That usually decides the driver before you get into finishes or extras. A cramped void, a remote mount, or a warm location can rule out a few options straight away, and that’s where call-backs start if you force the wrong unit in. After that, check whether the job needs dimming, fixed output, or a specific voltage. Match the driver to the load rather than the other way round. The usual mistake is buying for the fitting family and not the actual layout.
Most jobs come down to three choices. A plain led driver is the standard fixed-output option. A led power supply is the same sort of kit when that’s how the spec is written. A led transformer is still the name you’ll hear on site for some jobs.
Constant current gear suits fittings that need a set current. Constant voltage is the one you reach for on strip-style runs and similar loads. The trade-off is simple - pick the wrong type and the fitting won’t behave as it should.
Dimmable led drivers only make sense when dimming is part of the job. Otherwise you’re paying for extra kit and another thing to check.
If you’re cross-referencing the wider Lighting range, keep this section in mind. The wrong format usually shows up later as flicker, mismatch, or a call-back.
The first check is what the fitting wants. That decides the driver before anything else. If the load is fixed and the current is set by the luminaire, go with constant current gear. If it’s a strip or other fixed-voltage run, price up a constant voltage led driver.
Check dimming early as well. A non-dimmable unit is fine until the spec changes, and then it’s a return. For Downlights, the choice often comes down to space behind the fitting and whether you need a remote unit. For Commercial Lighting, load, control gear and maintenance access usually matter more.
Once you’ve picked the right led drivers, the next call is what sits around them and how much room you’ve got to hide the gear. In a tight void, a slim panel or access screen can save you grief later. A proper enclosure or storage point is worth it where the driver may need changing without disturbing the rest of the run.
On commercial jobs, that often matters more than the fitting itself - a neat install is only neat if you can still get back to the driver. If the spec is moving on to adjacent finishes, keep the access side of the job in mind before you close it up.









