Socket converters are used when the plug you have does not match the socket you are using. Check the plug type and the load first. A light-duty travel plug converter suits low-demand kit. For a firmer connection, use a sturdier mains socket converter that stays secure under use.
Wessex Fly Lead Socket Convertor - 13A-16A
Fly lead converter with 13A plug to 16A socket for site equipment
Wessex Fly Lead Socket Convertor - 16A-13A
Fly lead converter with 16A plug to 13A socket for domestic appliances
Socket Converter - 1 or 2 Gang to 4 Gang
Converts 1 or 2 gang to 4 gang sockets, white gloss, switched, surface mount.
Socket Converter - 1 Gang to 2 Gang
Converts 1 gang to 2 gang sockets, white gloss, switched, surface mount.
Knightsbridge 3 Way Industrial Socket Splitter IP44 16Amp 110V
3-way 110V 16A industrial socket splitter, IP44 rated, yellow/white
Fly Lead Socket Convertor - 16A Lead to 13A Socket
Fly lead converter for industrial plugs, 250mm arctic blue cable
Selectric Converter Socket Converts 1 or 2 Gang to 4 Gang Switched
White converter socket: 1 or 2 gang to 4 gang switched, BS 1363-2 compliant
Niglon 13A Switched Converter Socket Arctic Edge - 2 Gang White
13A switched converter socket, 2 gang, white, suitable for 25mm flush or 32mm su…
Socket Converter - 2 Gang to 3 Gang
Converts 2 gang to 3 gang sockets, white gloss, switched, surface mount.
Made4Trade Socket Converter - 1 Gang - 2 Gang
Converts a single socket to a double gang for extra power indoors
You’ll usually narrow socket converters by the job spec before you look at finish. Flush or surface mounting, single or double gang, and the duty and pole count need to line up first, because that decides the circuit and the box behind it. A 13A job is a different ask from a 20A one, and bathroom or kitchen work can change who should be doing the electrical side under Part P. Decorative trim comes last. If the spec is wrong, the neat faceplate won’t save you.
A simple plug adaptor suits one-off compatibility and temporary kit. It is quick to fit, but it can get knocked or pulled if the lead sits under strain.
Choose a socket converter with a firmer body when the connection will stay in place and see more handling. It gives a steadier fit, though it is less suited to quick swaps. If you are matching out a job from Wiring Accessories, keep the choice tied to the load and how much movement the connection will see.
The first check is mounting and load. That rules out half the shelf straight away. A socket converter that sits flush works when the box depth and faceplate line up. Go surface-mounted when containment is awkward or there is little room behind it.
Single and double gang layouts matter too. They keep the front end tidy without forcing the wiring. After that, Back Boxes and Pattress Boxes and Combination Plates usually decide what fits cleanly and what turns into a bodge.
Once you’ve picked the socket converters, the next call is what sits around them. If the job needs a neat finish or a mixed arrangement, combination plates usually save time because you are not trying to force separate accessories into a tight space.
Where the box depth is marginal, back boxes and pattress boxes matter more than most people expect. A shallow one is what causes grief when the converter body is bulky. Check the surrounding switches and sockets at the same time if you want the plate style, fixing centres and finish to line up, rather than leaving one odd item on the wall.







