Crimps come down to two things: the conductor size you’re working with and the finish the job needs. Insulated versions are usually the quick pick for general terminations, while uninsulated types suit tighter spaces or a more compact connection. Ring crimps hold where the fixing must stay put. Spade and fork styles make removal easier later. If you’re matching existing work, check the format first - that’s where most call-backs start.
Boot Lace Ferrule - 10mm² 600V Ivory 100 Pack
100-pack ivory boot lace ferrules for 10mm² conductors, 600V
Unicrimp Copper Tube Lug - 6mm, 10 Pack
Copper tube lug, 6mm size in a pack of 10
Crimp Terminal Male Bullet - 4mm, 0.5mm²-1.5mm², 10A, Red, 100 Pack
Red male bullet crimp terminal, 4mm, 0.5mm²-1.5mm², 10A, pack of 100
Crimp Terminal Female Bullet - 5mm, 4mm²-6mm², Yellow, 100 Pack, 24A
Female bullet crimp terminal, 5mm, for 4mm²-6mm² cable, yellow, 100 pack, 24A
Boot Lace Ferrule - 1.5mm² 600V Red 100 Pack
Red boot lace ferrules for 1.5mm² cord ends, pack of 100
Swann Insulated Bootlace Ferrule - 1.5mm² Black
1.5mm² black insulated bootlace ferrule
Your Esssentials Insulated Crimp Fork Terminal - 3.7mm Blue
3.7mm blue insulated crimp fork terminal, 600V max
Your Esssentials Copper Uninsulated Cable Lugs Flared Entry - 50mm² 6mm hole
Copper uninsulated cable lug, 50mm² cable, 6mm hole, 10 pack
SWA Tube Terminal - 25mm M6 Copper
25mm copper tube terminal with M6 thread
SWA Tube Terminal - 16mm M8 copper
Copper tube terminal for 16mm cable with M8 stud hole
Start with the space you’ve got and how the connection needs to sit. In a crowded enclosure or tight panel, smaller crimps save grief because bulky sleeves and oversized barrels get in the way. If the termination may be disturbed, pick a form that stays put. If it needs to come off again, choose the layout that gives you access without fighting the fixing. Most call-backs I’ve seen come from the wrong size or a poor match to the job, not the crimp itself.
Insulated and uninsulated crimps are usually the first split. Insulated versions suit quicker general terminations, with the sleeve taking some of the strain. Uninsulated crimps are the neater choice when space is tight or you are finishing inside a panel.
After that, the terminal shape does the real sorting. Ring crimps hold the fixing in place. Spade or fork crimps make more sense when you may need to lift the connection again. Cable crimps, wire crimps and electrical crimps are the main formats you are choosing between, and crimp connectors are the broader label when you want a straight join rather than a fixed terminal. If you are matching a job out across Cable & Cable Management, that is the point to narrow it down. The wrong layout usually causes the comeback, not the crimp itself.
Start with conductor size and the finish you need. Then check how much room you’ve got, and whether the joint needs to stay fixed or come off again.
Insulated crimps give quicker identification and a bit of protection around the barrel. Uninsulated types suit tighter spaces or a neater assembly where every millimetre matters.
Ring crimps stay put on a fixed point. Spade crimps make more sense when the connection may need to come off later.
If the job sits in conduit or a tighter run, Metal Conduit & Accessories can push you towards slimmer terminals. Check Cable before you order as well. A poor match there is what usually brings the call-back, not the crimp.
Once you’ve picked the crimps, the next call is what finishes the run and keeps the job tidy. If the cable is still exposed, you are usually into cable management, cable sleeving or cable ties rather than more connectors.
Where the run passes through metalwork, glands and grommets matter more than another terminal. On bigger jobs, label printing saves time at test and handover, and electrical tape still gets used for marking and dressing. Most of the comeback comes from the surrounding finish being left loose, not the crimp itself.









