Downlights usually come down to three things: fixed or adjustable head, fire rated or IP rated, and GU10 lamps or an integrated LED unit. GU10 downlights give you lamp choice and easier replacement. Integrated LED versions are neater and leave fewer parts to come back on. Fire rated downlights are the one you use when the spec calls for it. Standard recessed downlights are the cheaper option where that protection is not needed.
Integral LED Recessed Evofire IP65 Fire Rated Downlight - Satin Nickel with Insu…
IP65 fire-rated GU10 LED downlight with insulation guard, satin nickel
Luxna LED Round Panel Light - 170mm x 22mm White 12W 3000K/4000K/6000K 1200lm IP…
Luxna 170mm LED round panel light, switchable CCT, 1200lm, IP44, 22mm
Luceco FType MK2 Fire Rated LED Downlight White - Dim2Warm 4/6W 460/690lm CCT Re…
Fire rated LED downlight with selectable power, colour temperature, and Dim2Warm…
Saxby Cast Fixed Indoor Downlight - 50W Satin nickel lamp not included
Fixed indoor downlight in satin nickel, 50W max, LED compatible
Eterna LDLEM3
1.5W LED emergency downlight, RoHS compliant
V-Tac LED Fire Rated IP65 Downlight Dimmable - Black Bezel
IP65 fire-rated dimmable LED downlight with black bezel
Red Arrow Orbit Recessed Circular Downlight - 18W 4000K 1440lm IP44 225mm white
18W 4000K white circular downlight, 1440lm, IP44
Knightsbridge GU10 Downlight - 70mm Chrome
Chrome GU10 downlight, 70mm diameter
MLA VFCIPW 230V IP65 GU10 Fire-Rated Downlight - White
230V IP65 fire‑rated GU10 downlight with white bezel, 35W max
Knightsbridge GU10 Recessed Downlight IP65 - Brushed Chrome
Brushed chrome IP65 GU10 downlight for wet areas
Start with the space you’ve got above the ceiling and how the fitting will be used. That usually rules out half the options before you look at finish. A shallow void pushes you towards slimmer downlights. A tighter layout may mean fewer cut-outs or a different trim size to keep the job clean. If the spec calls for dimming, fire rated downlights, or a wet-area rating, that narrows the shortlist fast. Most call-backs come from choosing on appearance first and checking the ceiling build-up later.
For most jobs, you’re choosing between recessed downlights and surface or ceiling downlights. Recessed downlights give you the cleaner finish where the ceiling build-up allows it. Ceiling downlights are the fallback when you can’t or don’t want to cut in.
LED downlights are usually the sensible pick now because you’re not tying yourself to lamp changes. GU10 downlights still make sense where you want the lamp replaced separately. Fire rated downlights come in when the spec calls for that protection. Dimmable downlights are only worth paying for if the control gear and circuit are set up for it.
If you’re working from the wider Lighting range, that’s usually where the job spec decides the format.
Trim size, lamp access and the rating usually decide it. Smaller apertures suit tighter ceilings and neater grids, but they leave less room if the cut-out is off.
GU10 downlights still make sense when you want to change the lamp without swapping the fitting. Integrated LED units suit jobs where you want fewer parts coming back on site. In bathrooms, check the rating first, not the finish.
If you’re pricing a larger scheme, look at Commercial Lighting alongside the downlights. If older fluorescent gear is still in play, Fluorescent Starters may need sorting as well.
Once the downlights are picked, the next call is the finish around them. That means the ceiling line, any access panels, and what stays visible once the lights are in.
Bathrooms and kitchens are where this gets held up. The lighting can be right, but the rest of the ceiling work still needs sorting. If you're building out the wider scheme, the related indoor lighting and light fittings ranges are the usual next stop. Move into commercial lighting when the spec shifts away from domestic downlights.















