Downlights usually come down to three things: fixed or adjustable head, fire rated or IP rated, and GU10 lamps or an integrated LED unit. GU10 downlights give you lamp choice and easier replacement. Integrated LED versions are neater and leave fewer parts to come back on. Fire rated downlights are the one you use when the spec calls for it. Standard recessed downlights are the cheaper option where that protection is not needed.
Luceco Ftype Essence Fire Rated IP65 LED Downlight - 5W 515lm 3000K Flat
5W 3000K fire rated IP65 LED downlight with QuickView and SpeedFit connector
Cast Ring 240V/12V Adjustable Downlight - Satin Nickel
Adjustable satin nickel downlight with 240 V and 12 V lamp holders
JCC Fire Rated Downlight IP20 Without Bezel
Fire rated IP20 downlight, mains twist & lock, without bezel
Luxna LED Round Panel Light - 225mm x 22mm white 18w 3000k/4000k/6000k 1800lm IP…
Slim white 225 millimetres 18W LED panel light, 1800 lumens, switchable colour t…
Integral LED Evofire Fire Rated Downlight 70-100mm - IP20 Tiltable White
Integral EvoFire IP20 tiltable white fire-rated downlight with GU10 lamp holder
Integral LED Evofire Micro 72 IP65 Fire Rated Downlight - White
White IP65 fire rated downlight with 1mm micro bezel, GU10
SPA Adjustable Downlight GU10 7W IP65 - Chrome
IP65 adjustable bathroom downlight, chrome, 7W GU10, tiltable
Kosnic Non-Maintained Standard Emergency Downlight
LED recessed emergency downlight with standard circular beam
Collingwood Dl490Mw5540 H4 Lite Downlight - 4.4W
Collingwood H4 Lite 4.4W adjustable dimmable downlight, IP65 white
Wessex Electrical IP65 Fixed Fire Rated Downlight - GU10 Satin Chrome
Fixed 7.5W GU10 fire-rated downlight with IP65 rating
Start with the space you’ve got above the ceiling and how the fitting will be used. That usually rules out half the options before you look at finish. A shallow void pushes you towards slimmer downlights. A tighter layout may mean fewer cut-outs or a different trim size to keep the job clean. If the spec calls for dimming, fire rated downlights, or a wet-area rating, that narrows the shortlist fast. Most call-backs come from choosing on appearance first and checking the ceiling build-up later.
For most jobs, you’re choosing between recessed downlights and surface or ceiling downlights. Recessed downlights give you the cleaner finish where the ceiling build-up allows it. Ceiling downlights are the fallback when you can’t or don’t want to cut in.
LED downlights are usually the sensible pick now because you’re not tying yourself to lamp changes. GU10 downlights still make sense where you want the lamp replaced separately. Fire rated downlights come in when the spec calls for that protection. Dimmable downlights are only worth paying for if the control gear and circuit are set up for it.
If you’re working from the wider Lighting range, that’s usually where the job spec decides the format.
Trim size, lamp access and the rating usually decide it. Smaller apertures suit tighter ceilings and neater grids, but they leave less room if the cut-out is off.
GU10 downlights still make sense when you want to change the lamp without swapping the fitting. Integrated LED units suit jobs where you want fewer parts coming back on site. In bathrooms, check the rating first, not the finish.
If you’re pricing a larger scheme, look at Commercial Lighting alongside the downlights. If older fluorescent gear is still in play, Fluorescent Starters may need sorting as well.
Once the downlights are picked, the next call is the finish around them. That means the ceiling line, any access panels, and what stays visible once the lights are in.
Bathrooms and kitchens are where this gets held up. The lighting can be right, but the rest of the ceiling work still needs sorting. If you're building out the wider scheme, the related indoor lighting and light fittings ranges are the usual next stop. Move into commercial lighting when the spec shifts away from domestic downlights.















