Led drivers come down to three checks: output type, voltage, and whether the load needs dimming. Constant current units suit fittings that need a set current. Constant voltage options are the usual pick for strip-style runs and other 12v or 24v jobs. If the spec calls for dimming, buy the dimmable version up front - changing it later is where the call-backs start.
Integral Constant Voltage LED Driver - 24V, 100W, 4.17A, Non-dimmable, IP20
100W constant voltage LED driver, 24V DC output, non-dimmable IP20
Saxby Constant Voltage LED Driver - 20W 24V
24V constant voltage LED driver, 20W, polycarbonate housing.
Saxby Constant Voltage Triac Dimming LED Driver - 25W 24V
Dimmable 25W constant voltage LED driver, 24V
Saxby Constant Voltage LED Driver - 75W 24V
75W 24V constant voltage LED driver
Saxby Constant Voltage LED Driver - 40W 24V
24V constant voltage LED driver, 40W, opal polycarbonate.
Knightsbridge IP20 Dimmable LED Driver Constant Voltage - 12V 25W DC
Dimmable 12V DC 25W constant voltage LED driver
All LED Constant Voltage LED Driver - 50W 24V Dimmable White IP20
24V dimmable LED driver with comprehensive protection features
Knightsbridge Constant Voltage Dimmable LED Driver - IP20 24V 100W DC
Dimmable constant voltage LED driver, 24V DC 100W, IP20.
Astro Lighting LED Driver - 14
Astro LED driver model 6008046 for LED lighting
Aurora Non-Dimmable Constant Current Driver - 3-9W 350mA IP68
IP68 constant current LED driver (3-9W, 350mA)
Start with the space you’ve got and how the fitting will be used. That usually decides the driver before you get into finishes or extras. A cramped void, a remote mount, or a warm location can rule out a few options straight away, and that’s where call-backs start if you force the wrong unit in. After that, check whether the job needs dimming, fixed output, or a specific voltage. Match the driver to the load rather than the other way round. The usual mistake is buying for the fitting family and not the actual layout.
Most jobs come down to three choices. A plain led driver is the standard fixed-output option. A led power supply is the same sort of kit when that’s how the spec is written. A led transformer is still the name you’ll hear on site for some jobs.
Constant current gear suits fittings that need a set current. Constant voltage is the one you reach for on strip-style runs and similar loads. The trade-off is simple - pick the wrong type and the fitting won’t behave as it should.
Dimmable led drivers only make sense when dimming is part of the job. Otherwise you’re paying for extra kit and another thing to check.
If you’re cross-referencing the wider Lighting range, keep this section in mind. The wrong format usually shows up later as flicker, mismatch, or a call-back.
The first check is what the fitting wants. That decides the driver before anything else. If the load is fixed and the current is set by the luminaire, go with constant current gear. If it’s a strip or other fixed-voltage run, price up a constant voltage led driver.
Check dimming early as well. A non-dimmable unit is fine until the spec changes, and then it’s a return. For Downlights, the choice often comes down to space behind the fitting and whether you need a remote unit. For Commercial Lighting, load, control gear and maintenance access usually matter more.
Once you’ve picked the right led drivers, the next call is what sits around them and how much room you’ve got to hide the gear. In a tight void, a slim panel or access screen can save you grief later. A proper enclosure or storage point is worth it where the driver may need changing without disturbing the rest of the run.
On commercial jobs, that often matters more than the fitting itself - a neat install is only neat if you can still get back to the driver. If the spec is moving on to adjacent finishes, keep the access side of the job in mind before you close it up.









