Led drivers come down to three checks: output type, voltage, and whether the load needs dimming. Constant current units suit fittings that need a set current. Constant voltage options are the usual pick for strip-style runs and other 12v or 24v jobs. If the spec calls for dimming, buy the dimmable version up front - changing it later is where the call-backs start.
Luxna Non-Dimmable LED Driver - 60W 1.5A IP20
Non-dimmable LED driver, 60W 1.5A, IP20 rated
ALL LED Constant Current LED Driver - 24V, 15W
24V 15W constant current LED driver with multiple protection features.
ALL LED LED Driver - 350mA
ALL LED constant current LED driver, 350mA, dimmable
All LED Constant Voltage LED Driver - 24V 120W
24V 120W constant voltage LED driver, SELV rated, overload protection.
Aurora Non-Dimmable Constant Current Driver - 1W-9W 350mA
Non-dimmable constant current LED driver for 350mA 1W-9W LEDs
Saxby Constant Voltage LED Driver - 12V 12W Red
12V constant voltage LED driver, 12W, red polycarbonate
ALL LED Driver - 350mA
350mA constant current dimmable LED driver
Saxby Constant Voltage 12V 20W LED Driver - Red
12V 20W constant voltage LED driver in red polycarbonate
ALL LED Constant Current LED Nano Driver IP55 - 2-4W 350mA
Constant current LED nano driver, 2-4W 350mA, IP55
ALL LED Constant Voltage LED Driver - 12V 15W Non-Dimmable
12V 15W non-dimmable constant voltage LED driver, SELV rated
Start with the space you’ve got and how the fitting will be used. That usually decides the driver before you get into finishes or extras. A cramped void, a remote mount, or a warm location can rule out a few options straight away, and that’s where call-backs start if you force the wrong unit in. After that, check whether the job needs dimming, fixed output, or a specific voltage. Match the driver to the load rather than the other way round. The usual mistake is buying for the fitting family and not the actual layout.
Most jobs come down to three choices. A plain led driver is the standard fixed-output option. A led power supply is the same sort of kit when that’s how the spec is written. A led transformer is still the name you’ll hear on site for some jobs.
Constant current gear suits fittings that need a set current. Constant voltage is the one you reach for on strip-style runs and similar loads. The trade-off is simple - pick the wrong type and the fitting won’t behave as it should.
Dimmable led drivers only make sense when dimming is part of the job. Otherwise you’re paying for extra kit and another thing to check.
If you’re cross-referencing the wider Lighting range, keep this section in mind. The wrong format usually shows up later as flicker, mismatch, or a call-back.
The first check is what the fitting wants. That decides the driver before anything else. If the load is fixed and the current is set by the luminaire, go with constant current gear. If it’s a strip or other fixed-voltage run, price up a constant voltage led driver.
Check dimming early as well. A non-dimmable unit is fine until the spec changes, and then it’s a return. For Downlights, the choice often comes down to space behind the fitting and whether you need a remote unit. For Commercial Lighting, load, control gear and maintenance access usually matter more.
Once you’ve picked the right led drivers, the next call is what sits around them and how much room you’ve got to hide the gear. In a tight void, a slim panel or access screen can save you grief later. A proper enclosure or storage point is worth it where the driver may need changing without disturbing the rest of the run.
On commercial jobs, that often matters more than the fitting itself - a neat install is only neat if you can still get back to the driver. If the spec is moving on to adjacent finishes, keep the access side of the job in mind before you close it up.









