When you’re choosing light bulbs, start with the fitting, the output you need, and whether the lamp is on a dimmer. GU10, E27, E14 and bayonet light bulbs all do the same job, but the wrong cap or a non-dimmable lamp bulb is where the call-backs start. LED light bulbs are usually the first swap for most replacements. Filament or decorative versions make more sense where the fitting is on show and the look matters.
Crompton Lamps LED Candle Filament - SES-E14 4.2W
4.2W LED candle filament bulb, SES-E14 cap, non-dimmable pearl finish.
Crompton Lamps LED GLS ES-E27 - 2700K 14W
Dimmable LED GLS bulb with ES-E27 base, 14W warm white
Status LED Golf Bulb BC - 2W Warm White B22
2W filament LED round bulb with B22 bayonet cap in warm white
Crompton Lamps LED GU10 Bulbs - 4.5W 38° Cool White 10 Pack 50W Equivalent
10-pack of 4.5W LED GU10 bulbs, cool white, 50W equivalent.
Integral LED GLS Omni Filament Bulb Bayonet Cap Non Dimmable - 4W 470lm Warm lig…
Integral LED GLS filament bulb, BC-B22 cap, 4W 470lm warm light, non-dimmable
Status LED Spot - 5W GU10
5W GU10 LED warm white non-dimmable spot, equivalent to 50W halogen
Crompton LED Dimmable Golf Bulb - 5W SES warm white
5W dimmable LED golf bulb with SES (E14) cap, warm white
Eveready Pygmy Bulb - 15W SES 300°
15W pygmy bulb, SES (E14) cap, 300°
Status LED GLS - 11W B22 Daylight Clear (100W Eqv)
11W LED B22 daylight clear bulb, 1521 lumens, 100W equivalent
Status GR10q 4 Pin 2D CFL Replacement LED Bulb - 18W Warm White
18W LED 2D replacement bulb (36W CFL equiv.), warm white, 2100 lumens
Start with the space you’ve got and how the lamp will be used, then narrow the light bulbs from there. A tight fitting or shallow shade rules out some shapes straight away. A dimmer changes the choice again, because not every lamp bulb behaves well at low output. Most call-backs come from the wrong cap or a bulb that looks right on paper but sits awkwardly in the fitting. If you’re replacing like for like, keep the cap and size consistent first, then decide whether you want a standard LED, a dimmable option, or a more decorative finish.
For most jobs, you narrow light bulbs by format before anything else. LED light bulbs are the usual pick when you want lower running cost and less heat, but the lamp still has to suit the bulb, and any dimming gear needs checking.
Bayonet light bulbs still make sense when you’re swapping like for like and want the same cap back in without changing the holder. Screw light bulbs, including e27 light bulbs and e14 light bulbs, cover the same sort of replacement work. E27 suits larger general-purpose fittings. E14 is more common in smaller decorative lamps. GU10 light bulbs are the one you reach for when the fitting takes a mains spotlight lamp, though the wrong type is less forgiving once it’s in hand.
The first check is the fitting and the lamp body around it. That tells you if you’re buying a straight replacement or changing the look of the job.
After that, check whether it needs to dim cleanly and whether LED light bulbs make sense for the running cost. A cheap swap that flickers on a dimmer gets called back.
Shape matters too. A shallow shade or tight lantern usually rules out the bulkier options. Decorative lamp bulbs are picked more for the finish than the output.
If the job is moving away from lamps altogether, Downlights are the next call. If you only need the light to come on when someone’s there, Motion Sensors may be the better buy.
Once you’ve settled the bulb spec, the next call is usually the gear around it - the fitting, any trim or screen, and whether the lamp needs a matching control or sensor. That keeps a simple replacement from turning into a second visit.
A lot of call-backs come from mixing the wrong bulb with the wrong fitting, or leaving the control side unresolved. If the job includes downlights or a timed circuit, sort those parts with the light bulbs so you’re not back chasing compatibility after the fact.














