When you’re choosing light bulbs, start with the fitting, the output you need, and whether the lamp is on a dimmer. GU10, E27, E14 and bayonet light bulbs all do the same job, but the wrong cap or a non-dimmable lamp bulb is where the call-backs start. LED light bulbs are usually the first swap for most replacements. Filament or decorative versions make more sense where the fitting is on show and the look matters.
Integral LED Candle Bulb Small Edison Screw Non Dimmable Warm Light - 470lm 5.5W
5.5W LED candle bulb, 470lm, warm light, E14 small screw, non-dimmable.
Crompton 5W LED GU10 COB Flood Beam Dimmable Bulb - Warm, cool, daylight white
5W LED GU10 COB dimmable bulb, daylight white, flood beam.
Status LED Candle Bulb - SES 4W
4W LED candle bulb with SES cap and pearl finish
Crompton Lamps LED Round Thermal Plastic Lamp - 5W 4000K 470lm E14 Dimmable
Crompton Lamps 5W dimmable LED lamp, E14, 4000K, 470lm.
Crompton GLS LED Light Bulb Dimmable E27 7.5W (60W Eqv) - Cool White 10-Pack Pea…
Dimmable LED GLS bulb, 7.5W (60W eqv), E27, Cool White, 10-pack, 15000h life
Wessex LED Frosted Mini Globe Bulb Lamps - 1.8W SES Warm White 250lm 4 Pack
Pack of four 1.8W LED frosted mini globe bulbs, 250lm warm white, SES cap
WFD G9 Capsule Bulb - 40W Clear
40W G9 clear capsule bulb, dimmable, 240V
Status LED Golf Bulb - E27 2W Warm White
2W LED filament golf bulb with warm white glow, E27 base
Integral LED Omni Filament Lamp - 3.4W 2700K 470lm E27 Clear Dimmable
Dimmable LED filament lamp, 3.4W E27, 470lm warm white, clear glass
Integral GLS B22 Non-Dimmable - 13.5W
13.5W LED GLS B22 bulb, 1521 lumens cool white, non-dimmable
Start with the space you’ve got and how the lamp will be used, then narrow the light bulbs from there. A tight fitting or shallow shade rules out some shapes straight away. A dimmer changes the choice again, because not every lamp bulb behaves well at low output. Most call-backs come from the wrong cap or a bulb that looks right on paper but sits awkwardly in the fitting. If you’re replacing like for like, keep the cap and size consistent first, then decide whether you want a standard LED, a dimmable option, or a more decorative finish.
For most jobs, you narrow light bulbs by format before anything else. LED light bulbs are the usual pick when you want lower running cost and less heat, but the lamp still has to suit the bulb, and any dimming gear needs checking.
Bayonet light bulbs still make sense when you’re swapping like for like and want the same cap back in without changing the holder. Screw light bulbs, including e27 light bulbs and e14 light bulbs, cover the same sort of replacement work. E27 suits larger general-purpose fittings. E14 is more common in smaller decorative lamps. GU10 light bulbs are the one you reach for when the fitting takes a mains spotlight lamp, though the wrong type is less forgiving once it’s in hand.
The first check is the fitting and the lamp body around it. That tells you if you’re buying a straight replacement or changing the look of the job.
After that, check whether it needs to dim cleanly and whether LED light bulbs make sense for the running cost. A cheap swap that flickers on a dimmer gets called back.
Shape matters too. A shallow shade or tight lantern usually rules out the bulkier options. Decorative lamp bulbs are picked more for the finish than the output.
If the job is moving away from lamps altogether, Downlights are the next call. If you only need the light to come on when someone’s there, Motion Sensors may be the better buy.
Once you’ve settled the bulb spec, the next call is usually the gear around it - the fitting, any trim or screen, and whether the lamp needs a matching control or sensor. That keeps a simple replacement from turning into a second visit.
A lot of call-backs come from mixing the wrong bulb with the wrong fitting, or leaving the control side unresolved. If the job includes downlights or a timed circuit, sort those parts with the light bulbs so you’re not back chasing compatibility after the fact.














