Sanding comes down to the finish you need and how much material you’re taking off. For quick flatting, sanding sheets and sanding blocks are the usual hand options. For machine work, sanding discs and sanding belts save time, but only if the tool and grit match the job. Fine grit is what you reach for before paint. Coarse grades are for heavier correction.
Oakey Between Coats Alox Roll 115mm x 5m - 180 Grit
115mm x 5m aluminium oxide sanding roll, 180 grit, anti-clogging coating
Aluminium Oxide Green Sanding Roll 115mm x 10m - 120 Grit
Heavy-duty 120 grit green aluminium oxide sanding roll, 115mm x 10m
Prep Hand Sander - 240mm x 84mm
240 x 84 mm Prep hand sander with padded aluminium base
Prodec Sandpaper Aluminium Oxide - 115mm x 5m 120 grit Green
115mm x 5m roll of 120-grit aluminium oxide sandpaper for dry sanding
Aluminium Oxide Abrasive Roll - 115mm x 10m P120 Grade (Fine) Yellow
Aluminium oxide abrasive roll, 115mm x 10m, P120 fine grade, yellow
Abrasive Paper Red Oxide - P80 5m
Red oxide abrasive paper, P80 grit, 5 metre length
Abracs Poly Abrasive Disc - 115 x 22mm
Poly abrasive disc 115mm x 22mm, max 13,200rpm, removes rust and paint
Mirka Abranet Sanding Disc - 150mm 180 Grit 10 Pack
150mm 180-grit Abranet sanding disc in a pack of 10
Mirka Hiomant Abrasive Sandpaper - 10m Roll P180
P180 sandpaper roll 11.5cm x 10m for fine surface sanding.
Contour Sanding Pads - 5 Pack
Assorted grit contour sanding pads (5 pack) for wood, plastic and metal
Start with the space you’ve got and how the job will be handled. That usually decides the sanding setup before you get into finish. Tight access, corners and trim push you towards hand sanding and sanding blocks. Open runs and heavier prep usually call for sanding discs or sanding belts. If the sheet won’t sit flat, you’ll feel it straight away and the finish will show it. For a light take-back, keep it simple. For more material, pick the format that keeps the work moving without fighting the tool.
For most jobs, you’re choosing between control and how fast you need to cover ground. Sanding sheets and sanding paper suit hand work and awkward profiles because you can work the surface properly, but you’ll go through them quicker if the job is heavy.
Sanding blocks keep the face flatter, so they’re the better pick when you don’t want to round edges. Sanding discs and sanding belts are the ones to reach for when the area is bigger or the material needs shifting, though they’re less forgiving if you’re chasing a fine finish.
If you’re matching the rest of the Interior Paint & Surface Preparation range, it usually comes down to whether you need speed, control, or both.
When you’re choosing sanding for a decorating job, start with how much you need to take off. Coarser grades clear old paint and rough edges faster, but they leave more scratch to deal with. Use them when you’ve got material to remove.
Finer grades suit the last pass before finish coats. They’re less likely to cut through on trim or patch work, so they give you more control where the surface is already close.
Wet and dry sanding comes in where dust control or a smoother final rub matters. For general prep, dry sheets are usually quicker and cheaper.
If it’s mostly hand work, sanding blocks give you better control on flats. The trade-off is speed. They move slower than machine work.
When you’re moving on to finish coats, Emulsion Paint is the next call. If you’re stripping back first, look at Paint Stripper instead.
Once sanding’s chosen, the next call is what goes back over it. If you’re finishing walls, emulsion paint is the usual follow-on. It will show up missed scratches, so the prep has to be right.
On trim, interior wood / trim paint is less forgiving of rough edges. A cleaner final pass matters there.
If you’re taking old coatings back first, paint stripper can save time before you start sanding again. It adds another stage, though, and changes the prep sequence.
Keep the protection side in mind too. Dust sheets and protective covers stop a tidy prep turning into a mess.















