Downlights usually come down to three things: fixed or adjustable head, fire rated or IP rated, and GU10 lamps or an integrated LED unit. GU10 downlights give you lamp choice and easier replacement. Integrated LED versions are neater and leave fewer parts to come back on. Fire rated downlights are the one you use when the spec calls for it. Standard recessed downlights are the cheaper option where that protection is not needed.
Kosnic Fire Rated Downlight - 6W
Fire rated downlight with 6W power rating
Ansell PrismPro Downlight - 5W/7W 4xCCT IP65 Dimmable LED Fire-Rated Dual Wattag…
IP65 dimmable LED fire-rated downlight, 5W/7W, 4 colour temperatures, 10-pack
Aurora Slim-Fit Round Low Profile Downlight - 9W 4000K 630lm white IP44
9W LED downlight, 630lm, 4000K, IP44, 20mm depth, white
Collingwood H4 Lite Downlight - 4.4W
Dimmable IP65 downlight, 4.4W, 3000K warm white, adjustable
Luxna GU10 Fire Rated Tilt Downlight IP20 - White, Chrome Bezel, lamp not includ…
Fire rated GU10 tilt downlight, white, chrome bezel, IP20
ALL LED Em-Spot LED Non-Maintained Emergency Downlight - 1.2W
1.2W LED non-maintained emergency downlight with 3 bezels and 3-hour duration, I…
Aurora Uni-Fit 10W Integrated Non-Dimmable Downlight - 4000K 900lm IP44 White
10W IP44 non-dimmable LED downlight, 4000K cool white, 900 lumens, integrated dr…
Luxna GU10 Fire Rated Fixed Downlight - Chrome Bezel IP20 (Lamp not included)
Fire rated fixed downlight with chrome bezel, GU10 lamp (not included)
Aurora Spryte Fixed Integrated LED IP44 Downlight - 8W Warm White 550lm
8W warm white fixed LED downlight, 550lm, IP44, 60° beam
V-TAC LED 5W Integrated Dimmable Fire Rated IP65 Downlight - White 440lm Warm Wh…
5W dimmable fire-rated IP65 downlight, 440lm 3000K warm white, white, 10 pack
Start with the space you’ve got above the ceiling and how the fitting will be used. That usually rules out half the options before you look at finish. A shallow void pushes you towards slimmer downlights. A tighter layout may mean fewer cut-outs or a different trim size to keep the job clean. If the spec calls for dimming, fire rated downlights, or a wet-area rating, that narrows the shortlist fast. Most call-backs come from choosing on appearance first and checking the ceiling build-up later.
For most jobs, you’re choosing between recessed downlights and surface or ceiling downlights. Recessed downlights give you the cleaner finish where the ceiling build-up allows it. Ceiling downlights are the fallback when you can’t or don’t want to cut in.
LED downlights are usually the sensible pick now because you’re not tying yourself to lamp changes. GU10 downlights still make sense where you want the lamp replaced separately. Fire rated downlights come in when the spec calls for that protection. Dimmable downlights are only worth paying for if the control gear and circuit are set up for it.
If you’re working from the wider Lighting range, that’s usually where the job spec decides the format.
Trim size, lamp access and the rating usually decide it. Smaller apertures suit tighter ceilings and neater grids, but they leave less room if the cut-out is off.
GU10 downlights still make sense when you want to change the lamp without swapping the fitting. Integrated LED units suit jobs where you want fewer parts coming back on site. In bathrooms, check the rating first, not the finish.
If you’re pricing a larger scheme, look at Commercial Lighting alongside the downlights. If older fluorescent gear is still in play, Fluorescent Starters may need sorting as well.
Once the downlights are picked, the next call is the finish around them. That means the ceiling line, any access panels, and what stays visible once the lights are in.
Bathrooms and kitchens are where this gets held up. The lighting can be right, but the rest of the ceiling work still needs sorting. If you're building out the wider scheme, the related indoor lighting and light fittings ranges are the usual next stop. Move into commercial lighting when the spec shifts away from domestic downlights.















