For glazing work, you’re usually choosing between a firmer traditional putty and a ready mixed option that cuts prep but gives you less working time. If you’re matching existing sash windows or doing a straightforward repair, standard putty is still the one most trades reach for because it beds and finishes as expected. For smaller touch-ups, wood putty or a multi purpose putty may be the neater call.
Milliput Two Part Epoxy Superfine - White
White two-part epoxy putty for fine ceramic restoration and repairs
Everbuild Multi Purpose Putty - 1kg Natural
1kg natural linseed oil putty for glazing window frames
Bartoline Multi Purpose Linseed Oil Putty - 1kg
Multi-purpose linseed oil putty, 1kg
Everbuild Multi Purpose Putty - 1kg Natural
1kg natural multi-purpose putty
Everbuild Multi-Purpose Linseed Oil Putty Natural - 2kg
Natural linseed oil putty for glazing wood and metal frames, 2kg
EVO-Stik Putty - 50g
Quick-set waterproof repair putty for copper pipes and tanks, 50g
Everbuild 101 Multi-Purpose Linseed Oil Putty - 5kg
5kg linseed oil putty for glazing single glass into window frames
Tikkurila Unica Window Putty Quick Drying Filler for Windows and Doors Interior …
Quick-drying glazing putty for doors and windows, 0.33L
EVO-Stik Glaziers Putty - 290ml
Gun grade glaziers putty for wood and metal frames
Bartoline Multi-Purpose Linseed Oil Putty - 2kg Tub
Multi-purpose linseed oil putty, 2kg tub
Start with the job, not the label. If it’s glazing, choose a putty that suits the frame condition and the time you have, because a slower product can hold you up while a quicker one gives you less working time. For timber repairs, wood putty usually makes more sense than a general multi purpose putty, since it is for local repairs rather than a broader fill. At the counter, keep it simple: match the finish you need and the movement you expect. That is what stops the job being reopened later.
Glazing putty is the pick for holding glass in a frame when you want a traditional finish. Ready mixed putty suits quicker repairs, especially when you want to skip conditioning.
Window putty is the same broad choice in plainer terms. Use it where the frame and finish need an older look. Move to decorators putty or multi purpose putty when you are filling smaller defects rather than bedding panes.
Trade putty is usually firmer and more workmanlike, so it stands up better on site. French chalk putty is softer, which makes it easier to handle when that matters more. If you need to step back and compare the range, Fillers, Foams & Putty is the parent area.
The first question is what you’re putting it onto. Timber that’s moving a bit, especially on older frames, usually needs a putty that stays workable and finishes cleanly. That’s where wood putty earns its keep. It is not the one to reach for on glass lines.
For traditional glazing, a firmer glazing putty gives a neater edge and holds its shape better. The trade-off is handling. Ready mixed options save time on site. A more specialist mix can be worth it when the frame condition is poor.
If you’re also picking up Applicator Guns or Expanding Foam / Applicator Guns, keep those separate. Putty choice is about the surface and the finish, not the gun.
Once you’ve settled on the putty, the next call is what else is going into that same area. On window work, that usually means the frame condition, any timber repairs, and the finish around the glass - not just the bead of putty.
If the frame needs patching as well, wood putty is the usual next pick. For broader surface defects, go to a general filler from the fillers range rather than trying to make putty do everything. Keep an eye on the surrounding paint or trim too. A neat glazing job can still look rough if the finish around it hasn’t been sorted.











